if below level you can get some 1/4' or 1/2' cylinder stops from shoup. When planter is lowered the parallel arms should be level.

If you don't have fertilizer boxes, you may need to add some iron to the frame. In the field operating position, the only movement should be in the unit parallel linkage, not the wheels going up and down. The frame being the proper height is very critical. The down pressure springs have the opposite effect of lifting the frame. The one I've used in the past just has the single cylinder on it. That's where these planters get confusing when reading a manual also. Thousands of 7000 planters around here over the years, and only seen 3-4 conservation models in 4 or 6 row. This is a conservation model with a hydrualic cylinder on each wheel. Yea, float doesn't make any sense, it has the free top end pivot deal so there is no down pressure, cylinder can close competely and not put any down pressure.Īssume this is a regular 7000 with one almost horizontal cylinder, not a conservation model. What I said before the planter has a float built in at the top end of the lift cylinder Will throw this in, make sure you have your draw bar height set also. Shouldn't the cylinder be set up so it is gravity down. Make sure your tractor hydraulics are set to the 'float' position. The piece the upper end of the cylinder hooks to is two piece sounds like it might be stuck together. What needs to be adjusted to stop this? The only thing I've found is the down pressure springs may be set too tight. Getting a setup to plant with and when the planter is lowered the drive wheels come off the ground.

John deere 7000 planter parts diagram